Following its menswear show in January, which paid homage to four forgotten fashion influences in womenswear design through vibrant tailoring, London-based label kiko-kostadinov” data-ylk=”slk:Kiko Kostadinov;elm:context_link;itc:0″ class=”link “>Kiko Kostadinov returned to the French capital to present its all-new Fall/Winter 2023 womenswear collection.
Much has been made of Laura and Deanna Fanning’s propensity for forms, functionality and highly gestural designs, but there is another relevant notion to highlight here: A fervent curiosity for their creative process and an interrogation of the many facets of feminine expression that swirl throughout the zeitgeist. For this season, the creative duo reimagined antique lingerie and outerwear, such as the hidden layers of undershirts, knickerbockers and petticoats of yore, through a nuanced and fresh streetwear lens.
The Fanning twins favored ruched, pleated, asymmetrical and multifunctional garments, an exercise in construction and fabric techniques that embrace and romanticize the body to create sartorial harmonies. Contrasting against the gymnasium of the Lycée Henri IV in Paris‘ Latin Quarter, layers of tulle shift in diagonal plissé midi-skirts, wide trousers, flared riding coats, zipped storm jackets and quilted peplum blazers emerged. Of course, the Kiko Kostadinov signature two-tone ensembles were omnipresent, from striped triangular knitting to the linings below canvas bubble skirts.
To further accentuate the hybridity of the garments, the line-up unveiled a new bowling/driving/ballet ribboned flat celebrating the Formula One driver Lella Lombardi. The new staple was also accompanied by pearlescent multi-buckled boots, jumbo-sized fuzzy socks and hand-beaded double-helix chokers.
Take a closer look at Kiko Kostadinov’s FW23 womenswear collection in the gallery above.
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